About the Author:
With a vision for media and storytelling that begins with local culture, MATADOR (matadornetwork.com) is a two-time recipient of the Lowell Thomas Award for excellence in travel journalism, and the largest independent travel publisher on the Internet.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.:
1: Blowouts
Probably the greatest event I’ve ever witnessed was the Pan American Surf Championship and bikini contest in Montañita, Ecuador. And it was great not for what you might imagine—the beauty pageant or murderously talented surfers from Brazil, Costa Rica, Panama—but the way the town transformed, creating something original without really trying.
Solid head-high swell and sunny days led up to the event (which coincided with Semana Santa), and over the course of the week the town’s youth waged a continuous, take-no-prisoners water battle across the plazas and over the seawall, launching from rooftops and behind buses and mule-drawn carts. Although members of the opposite sex (of approximately your own age) appeared to be the prize targets, shopkeepers, stoned artisans, basically anyone/anything caught in the crossfire was fair game and only added to the hilarity.
For those few days Montañita behaved less like a town and more like an organism, simply giving in to the anarchy of the water war, the influx of visitors, the long global arc of Carnaval with its roots somewhere in the past but manifesting now as something spontaneous and new, which didn’t cost anything to participate in or exclude any participation. If you were there, you were just part of it.
There are all kinds of events. But true blowouts are visceral, participational; they shatter your ideas of how things fit together. As one author described Burning Man, “If you did it right, it’s going to take you at least a week to feel normal again. And if you did it right, normality will feel slightly unwelcome.” With every blowout event there’s a before and after. In between, you have the chance to lose and find yourself all over again.
1. Burning Man
LOCATION: Black Rock City, Nevada
SEASON: First week of September.
IDEAL CONDITIONS: Scorching hot and bone dry with a 75 percent chance of dust storms.
LODGING RECOMMENDATIONS: Recreational Vehicle (for the 1 percent), pup tent, camper van, random flat surface, or better yet—don’t sleep.
INGESTIBLES: You’re the kid, this is the candy store.…
Burning Man is the event. Black Rock City is the place. Burning Man is the art, the music, the people, the party, the intention, the tower of flames that lights the Nevada desert. Black Rock City (BRC) is the flat expanse of barren playa that supports this unlikely and otherworldly happening. Got it? Good.
This is the type of scene that you could parachute into stark naked and singing “The Star-Spangled Banner” and upon landing you would be absorbed by the great fifty thousand–person organism—clothed, fed, and imbibed before your ’chute touched the desert ground. It is that kind of party. In fact, fuck that. It’s not a party—it’s an experiment in living and a radical expression of life-as-art that is so fucking fun that it feels like the best memory of your best birthday party, only ninety-nine times better.
Enter the playa (no doubt in a creeping procession of thousands of eager burners in dusty vehicles snaking for miles) and see the arch of BRC stretch out toward desert heat nothingness. A semicircle of a silly pseudo-civilization that only exists for a week or so, BRC is itself a work of art.
Art. You will hear that word a lot at Burning Man. Everything is art, sometimes even when it isn’t. But who cares? You don’t trek out to the middle of the Black Rock desert to argue the finer foibles of artistic meaning; you come to experience, to interact, to consume, to dabble, and maybe to completely fucking lose yourself.
Find your camp and hug everyone. If you are solo or traveling with a group of friends but have no camp, find a place to park and set up. Set up your tent (or whatever you will pass out in), set up your table with water and a shitty little iPod dock, and set up whatever shade structure you can manage. Start to wander—you should get used to it. BRC is a place for aimless wandering.
Wander past a scraggle of gyrating day drunks and accept a Dixie cup full of pink “jungle juice” that goes down like sugary kerosene. Wander up to a bar and order whatever they are pouring but keep an eye on the bartender if you don’t fancy a sneaker dose of ketamine. Wander past a merry gathering of burners wearing tighty-whitey underwear over their clothes who are enjoying a full Thanksgiving spread and would like you to join. Don the underpants and grab some dark meat and gravy. Wander past BassNectar, Distrikt, or any of the thumping, big sound camps attracting dancers like thousands of dubstepping human amoebas.
Get dirty, you don’t care. Watch the sunrise. Cuddle with strangers. Contrary to popular opinion, it’s not all about drugs and buggery, but of course it’s there if you want it. It’s mostly a matter of going somewhere completely different to allow yourself to shed the robe of predictable, well-behaved banality and reveal yourself as something much more spontaneous. Or just reveal yourself.
Eat some freeze-dried camping food and pineapple chunks from your stash and accept gratefully the hard-boiled eggs, whiskey, psychedelics, pancakes, and coffee people offer gladly. Help cook some communal tamales.
Of course The Man will burn—that’s why they call it you-know-what. The Man is a few hundred feet tall, made of wood, and is torched with an orgiastic display of pyrotechnics the penultimate night of the event.
When The Man burns it is the beginning of the end. You will have one more epic descent down the rabbit hole of communal delirium, sober up, and start the process of transition all over again—this time to go home.
NOTES FROM A VETERAN
As you enter Black Rock City you are welcomed Home by a team of grinning greeters. It doesn’t matter if you are a veteran or virgin, when you set foot in Black Rock City you’re Home—where you belong: where you are accepted, loved, and free to be. Come Home once and you are a local for life.
FUCKED UP FIRSTHAND
I shoot whiskey to mitigate the sobriety gap that eating magic mushrooms sometimes creates—you never know when the funky fungus is going to kick you in the brain and so you nervously wait, drinking whiskey. Suddenly I am dancing in a crowd of Santa Clauses and a mostly naked mad scientist is spraying champagne down my throat from a five-gallon tank he wears on his back. The shrooms kick in as a golf cart converted into a mobile bar and decorated with dildos swings by and I am on a stool introducing myself as The Last Human while accepting a concoction of not-strictly-alcohol from a yellow-and-red McDonald’s cooler. “What’s in it?” I ask. “I don’t know!” he squeals.
VERDICT
If you really want to know, just go.
Josh Johnson
2. Coachella
LOCATION: Indio, California
SEASON: April.
IDEAL CONDITIONS: Hot as hell in the day, warm at night.
LODGING RECOMMENDATIONS: Camping out at the festival keeps the FOMO away.
INGESTIBLES: Acid, shrooms, ecstasy, and weed are the drugs of choice. Festival food that will have you making spicy pies of your own later.
Ordinarily, getting messed up and listening to emotionally stirring music in your grandparents’ retirement community is reserved for going to their funeral receptions. But for two weekends in April every year, Indio turns itself from a Palm Springs satellite where retired CEOs go to avoid their wives into one of the world’s greatest gatherings for drugged-out hippies running away from the responsibilities thrust upon them by “having a job” and “being an adult.” Few places in the world allow for dropping acid and following a seven-foot man in a yellow tutu anywhere, but at Coachella that man may just lead you to a stage where Florence and the Machine perform right before Snoop Lion and a resurrected Tupac.
There are a lot of places to stay around the festival, but if you buy your Car Camping Pass with your ticket in the presale, your planning is done. Camping is the authentic Coachella experience. And since the drugs usually haven’t worn off by the last set, the campgrounds blow up with small carnival rides and even a Silent Disco after hours.
For those less interested in sleeping on a patch of grass and smelling like the sweat from that fat guy who kept bumping into you during The Black Keys (heathens!), hotels and house rentals are the next best bet. Hotels near the festival are listed on the official Web site, while houses for rent can be found on Craigslist. Old people in Palm Springs don’t trust hippies, so be ready to sell your liver to afford the security deposit.
Getting to the festival isn’t an issue for campers, but for those who opted out there’s the official Coachella Shuttle Pass. Buy it with your ticket for the peace of mind that you’ll be dropped off at 2:00 A.M. nowhere near your hotel. There’s also a taxi line outside for those who want to watch other people get picked up without getting home themselves, but the best option is in the parking lot, where enterprising locals come and offer cheap rides to anyone brave enough to get in the car with them.
Once you’re in the festival, the fun really begins. The merchandise tent is located front and center to the entrance, because nothing says “a weekend escape from the trials of capitalism” like paying $40 for a T-shirt. Past that are the food stalls selling everything from Spicy Pie Pizza to Pink’s Hot Dogs. The Beer Gardens and VIP areas have some better options, but you’ll be forced to eat and drink behind the fence.
The actual music is divided between the five main stages: Main Stage, Outdoor Theatre, Gobi Tent, Mojave Tent, and Sahara Tent. The latter sticks to the electronic acts and functions as a sequester for underage teens doing ecstasy for the first time and realizing, “Man, lights are pretty.” There’s a smaller stage called The Do LaB in the center of the grounds, headed every year by a performance group called Lucent Dossier Experience, which is basically Cirque du Soleil without the classy pretense that the entire audience isn’t on shrooms.
Coachella is an art festival as well as a music festival, and it doesn’t bother pandering to the beret-and-goatee crowd. Coachella is big and loud, and usually uses art as a playground. From the giant T. rex that eats empty water bottles to the giant bugs with pedals that make the wings flap, the art is fine-tuned to gleefully entertain people who’ve reduced their cognition to that of two-year-olds. The Ferris Wheel is the one constant and the most famous image of Coachella, though it makes a shitty meeting spot when everybody uses it as one.
It’s a shame Coachella is only two weekends long, because each weekend is the best of the year. The sun, heat, palm trees, and distant mountains create a vista that would be beautiful even without the crazy hippies walking around on stilts built to look like flamingos.
NOTES FROM A VETERAN
The security around Coachella depends almost entirely on the mood of the security guard at the time. If you’re sneaking something in, hide it well just in case you get the asshole that wants everything short of a cavity search.
VERDICT
Will stick in your memory no matter what substances it’s been filtered through.
Colin Heinrich
3. Glastonbury
LOCATION: Glastonbury, United Kingdom
SEASON: The June weekend closest to summer solstice.
IDEAL CONDITIONS: Sunny and dry (good luck).
LODGING RECOMMENDATIONS: Camper van.
INGESTIBLES: Canned booze (possibly peed in), Brothers Cider, liberty caps from local cow dung, caffeine pills sold as ecstasy, tea and cake (The Crow’s Nest), meat pies (Pieminister), anything you can smuggle.
Bigger isn’t always better but in the case of Glastonbury, the world’s largest open-air music fest, it is. Run by a dairy farmer and his daughter since 1970, it somehow stays true to its hippie roots despite an attendance of 177,500. Maybe it’s the local yogis and mystics who descend each year to spread their chi. Maybe it’s King Arthur smiling down from his hilly grave. Maybe as a former hangout of Jesus’ uncle, it has good karma for all time. Whatever the case, prepare yourself for an alternate universe. Reality ends at the gate.
Start day one with a veggie breakfast in Green Fields £6 ($9 USD), the fest’s new-age hub. Enjoy in a wind-powered yurt while scouring the festival paper for secret gigs. Everyone from Fatboy Slim to Radiohead has played here unbilled. The main stages in the venue’s north end are where you’ll find the big-name acts. U2, Stevie Wonder, Neil Young—they’ve all played the iconic Pyramid Stage. It may be tempting to park here for the day, but don’t. Some of the best experiences are on the outskirts. In Dance Village, it’s never too early for amphetamines. Stop at Pussy Parlure, a 1920s saloon where drag queens spin salsa and English maids tickle you with their feather dusters. Vaudeville is alive and kicking on the fest’s eastern fringe with circus acts, tap dancers, comedians, and poets. It’s the best place to see a roaming brass band of pink elephants or join a jazzercise class. At The Park you can scramble up a ribbon tower with teetering drunks. The crowds are lighter, which means more room to dance. There’s also the famed Rabbit Hole where you wriggle through a tunnel to rave with Alice and the Queen of Hearts. The Stone Circle is a mini Stonehenge with a panoramic view of the festival. Retreat under a five-hundred-year-old king oak and watch the sunset, snog a stranger, or propose to your girlfriend (it happened to me). The Lost Picture Show (free) is a crumbling Cuban cinema with velvet throw cushions and tangy mojitos. If you want to party until breakfast, Shangri-La and the surrounding areas are after-hours central. Watch acrobats leap from a fire-breathing animatronic spider (Arcadia), sip vodka in a spaceship (seat belts required), or get down at a New York gay disco (mustache required). Once our friend went looking for us in what he thought was a club. It was actually a “decontamination facility” where a panel determined he was toxic, put him in a biohazard suit, and sent him to the “New World” via an overpass called the Skywalk.
Some final pointers for Glastonbury:
• Plan early. Tickets sell out eight months in advance … in less than two hours.
• If you’re camping, arrive early and in daylight. Nothing kills the festival spirit like trying to pitch a tent in the rainy dark while everyone around you has the time of their lives.
• Mud sliding might look fun in pictures but sticky, poo-colored trousers don’t get you laid.
• “Love the farm, leave no trace” is the official policy so pick up your shit.
FUCKED UP FIRSTHAND
Sunday was strangely hot so my boyfriend and I took shelter in the intriguingly named “House of Fairy Tales.” Inside, a pretty woman in a child-sized chair sang a song about magpies. We grabbed a few shakers and jammed along. Storybooks were strewn everywhere and as I opened one, Goldilocks wandered in and took a nap. Later, we saw a sword swallower, a knife thrower in red heels, and a live painter doing a spot-on portrait of Joe Strummer, upside down, in five minutes. We were sprayed with disinfectant by a SWAT team fighting swine flu.
VERDICT
Glastonbury’s like a free pass: it’s four days off from the world.
Becky Hutner
4. Carnaval Humahuaqueño*1
LOCATION: Jujuy Province, Argentina
SEASON: Usually takes place in February.
IDEAL CONDITIONS: Warm sunshine and brisk mountain air by day (nights get chilly).
LODGING RECOMMENDATIONS: Hostel Humahuaca or El Sol Hostel in Humahuaca; Casa los Molles or Hostel Malka in Tilcara.
INGESTIBLES: Beer, empan...
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