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Taking shellfish type by type, the book provides a thorough introduction to the best cooking methods for each, lauding, for example, brining, a method sure to produce succulent cooked shrimp. Master recipes such as Pan-Seared Scallops are followed by variations that include, in this case, scallops with lemon, shallots and capers, and sherry, red onion, orange, or thyme. Throughout, underlying techniques are explored and illustrated (preparing a lobster for cooking is an exemplary one), and sensible tips abound (for example, a splatter screen is useful when frying soft-shelled crabs, which contain a great deal of water).
A true primer, the book is part of the Cook's Illustrated Library series. Like the magazine, the books are dedicated to presenting tried-and-perfected recipes and cooking techniques in a concise, approachable way. --Arthur Boehm
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