The Good Life: Your Dog's First Year - Hardcover

Siegal, Mordecai; Margolis, Matthew "Uncle Matty"

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9780684864747: The Good Life: Your Dog's First Year

Hardcover

ISBN 10: 0684864746 ISBN 13: 9780684864747

Publisher: Simon & Schuster, 2002

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A comprehensive, month-by-month guide to raising a happy and healthy puppy explains how puppies are much like human children and require similar parenting care, in a volume providing coverage of such topics as crate training, instructive play activities, behavioral problems, and housebreaking. 25,000 first printing.

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About the Author:

Mordecai Siegal is president emeritus of the Dog Writers Association of America and has written thirty-one books about dogs, cats and horses. He is frequently called upon as a keynote or after-dinner speaker as well as a master of ceremonies at benefits and pet-related events. He has appeared on numerous TV talk shows and has had his own radio talk show in New York. He has written monthly pet columns for House Beautiful, Good Housekeeping and Woman's World. The recipient of numerous awards for his writing, he lives in New York City. Please visit the author at www.mordecai.com.

Chapter One: From Birth to Three Months
Before Your Dog Became Your Dog

The warm belly, the swinging tail, the licking tongue, the wet nose and the adoring-dancing-mischievous-needful eyes of a new puppy make the difference between heart-quickening pleasure and the ho-hum of just another day. The first day with a new puppy is better than Oscar Night or New Year's Eve. Not even the final episode of Cheers can compete for attention with a new puppy. It is a new and exciting playmate, a needful baby, a squirming bag of jelly beans and an embryonic friend who will steal your house and your heart and renew your desire to live forever. A puppy is love. A puppy is life. What can possibly compete with that?

As hard as it is to imagine, this sweet creature, in the world for only a handful of weeks, has already lived through an important set of experiences that will certainly influence his life with you. It starts with the process of being born, which can be a smooth nonevent, easily accomplished as one little section in Nature's Textbook, and a highly traumatic experience that, unfortunately, has its own portion of that same textbook. It is all too real and oh, so natural.

The fertilization of an egg is a wondrous event, and the passage from fetus to Fido, from amniotic dependency to the first gasp of independent breathing, is truly miraculous. It can also be a stressful experience for a baby dog, being rudely awakened from its liquid sleep and squeezed out of the safety of the mama cave into a chilly, unknown landscape. Even the most placid newborn, with its eyes and ears closed, has to gasp for air and begin an urgent search for warmth and nourishment in a matter of seconds. Talk to anyone who has witnessed this incredible rush for life and you will certainly get a mixed response. Whelping a puppy can be an intense emotional experience, an experience that can leave you amazed, apprehensive, enthralled and exhausted. When it is finally accomplished, how did it influence the dog-to-be? One can only guess the answer.

Getting Whelped

If there are no complications, a veterinarian is not required for canine labor, which may take place between fifty-six and seventy-two days after conception. This estimate for gestation (the length of pregnancy) is realistic because it is impossible to determine the exact days for ovulation (the release of eggs), fertilization (eggs combining with sperm) and the beginning of fetal development. Also, it takes from six to ten days for fertilized eggs to move through the oviducts (fallopian tubes) and enter the uterus (womb), where the fetuses grow into puppies. All these variables make it impossible to predict the exact day when parturition (birth) begins. A practical guideline, however, is that puppies arrive approximately nine weeks after the sire and dam conceived.

As the puppies are being born, they may arrive one right after the other, or ten minutes apart, or, in some rare instances, hours apart. Some litters may take as long as eight hours to arrive, while others may take even longer, depending on the size of the litter or if something has gone wrong. It is even possible for them to be delivered up to twenty-four hours apart, although that is extremely rare.

A newborn puppy comes into the world encased in an amniotic sac, which is a thin membrane containing the infant, like a sort of plastic bag. It is attached to a small mass, the placenta, the source of oxygen and nourishment from within the mother's body. The placenta is attached to the newborn's stomach with an umbilical cord and is supposed to leave the mother's body shortly after the newborn pup, to which it is attached, is born. This usually occurs within ten or fifteen minutes.

The amniotic sac containing the pup must be broken with the mother's teeth and pulled away once it leaves her body. This is especially important around the puppy's face so that breathing can begin. Some dogs will ingest it along with the cord after licking the amniotic fluid off the newborn. Removal of the sac is necessary within one to three minutes if the newborn is to live. Then the puppy must be licked clean by its mother. This enables her to identify it as her own by scent and taste. It is important for humans to avoid touching the puppy at this crucial time so that a sensory bond can be established between the mother and the newborn. This bond is what triggers her maternal instincts for the protection and caring of the little dog, and it is not uncommon for a mother to reject a puppy if the bond is not established right away. Once created, the maternal bond continues from warmth to walking, from nursing to weaning, and then it fades away or evolves into something else. For this reason the best thing a human can do for a dog whelping her puppies is simply not interfere with the natural process unless it is necessary.

Sometimes things go wrong, and for many possible reasons the mother may fail to open the sac with her teeth. This might occur because she is either inexperienced, exhausted, in pain, distracted by nursing newborns or still in the process of delivering the rest of the litter. If the mother fails to open the sac, you should be prepared to help. This must be done within three minutes after the delivery so that independent breathing can start. You must be cautious when reaching down to help because the mother may instinctively snap at you.

First the sac or membrane must be torn open by hand and peeled away. This does not hurt the puppy. It's best to start at the face and pull it off toward the back of the body, removing as much of the fluids from the mouth and nose as possible. Then the newborn should be rubbed down gently with a clean, dry towel. This starts not only breathing but also most other bodily systems, such as the digestion process. There will be a slight squeal once the puppy's lungs fill with air and the first gasps of independent life begin. If this does not happen, you must hold the newborn in your hands, with his face toward the floor, supporting his head so that it doesn't bobble. Starting from your chest, move the little dog in a downward direction toward your knees. If the puppy's face is pointing downward in the direction of the floor, as it should, excess fluids will run out of his nose and mouth. It is essential to remove these fluids from the breathing passages. It's a good idea to have a small syringe on hand to withdraw them if necessary. (Normally, the mother removes them by licking the area clean along with a vigorous slurp.) Once you hear breathing and whimpering, the miracle of independent life is beginning before your eyes.

The next thing to do is to cut the umbilical cord if the mother has failed to do it with her teeth. First, tie two knots with sewing thread. The first knot should be tied approximately one inch from the pup's stomach. The second knot should be about one quarter inch beyond that. With a very clean pair of scissors or a sharp knife, cut the cord between the two knots. (Don't worry -- this does not hurt the puppy.) Then drench the end of the cord that is attached to the puppy's stomach with an antiseptic such as Bactine, Betadine or iodine. Bacitracin will also serve. Dry the little dog with a towel in order to remove any residual membrane and shake him gently (without tossing his head about) to be sure that he continues to breathe. Use a clean, dry towel for each puppy. Hold him gently for a minute to warm him up and then give him back to the mother as soon as possible so she can identify him as her own by taste and smell. Help the newborn find a nipple so that her warmth and milk can begin the nurturing so necessary to sustain life.

Sometimes the mother must rest between the delivery of puppies. But if four hours go by and there are still puppies to be born, you must call a veterinarian for help. You must also call for help if a fetus cannot be expelled from the birth canal by the mother or with your help. It may require surgical removal. It is impossible to predict exactly how the process of a puppy's birth will affect his behavior, but the experience certainly does have an influence, especially if the experience was stressful or life-threatening.

The Most Important Influence on Your Dog's Behavior

Of course you are going to love your new dog and have a wonderful time playing with him and becoming best friends. You will also find it fascinating to watch this near-human critter, filled with the joy of life, grow from infancy to adulthood in just one short year. How long has it been since every experience in your life was a new one, like the first sip of a crisp, good wine? That's what a dog's first year is like for him and it is a luxurious privilege to be part of it. However, it is important to understand that the life he experienced before his life with you has already had a great influence on what kind of dog he's going to be. This knowledge helps you understand what is great about your dog and what may be lacking so that you can fill in the missing parts.

As in human infancy, the early phase of a dog's life involves physical growth and mental development. Human childhood is a long stage, perhaps the longest in nature, and under the best circumstances it involves adult parents protecting, providing for and instructing the child. In a dog's life, however, infancy to adulthood is compacted into approximately one year.

In the first three weeks of puppyhood, the young dog develops all of his sensory abilities plus many of his motor capacities. From the beginning of the fourth week until the end of the seventh week, the puppy enters a period of socialization that will affect his behavior for the rest of his life. During this critical period of socialization, the dog's environment plays a major role in how the animal will be able to adapt to human beings, training and other animals. During this four-week period, the brain and the central nervous system are developing into full maturity. Interactions with littermates and the mother teach the puppy indelible lessons about pack behavior. This canine socialization helps him create attachments to other puppies, assuring that he will easily adjust to other dogs as an adult. If, in addition, the puppy is handled by a human being at least twice a day during this stage, the dog will also readily adapt to humans with ease and comfort. Thus, by the end of the seventh week, the animal will have become adaptable to dogs and humans and will get along well with both. It is then time to remove the puppy from the litter before the question of dominance and subordination is settled within the litter itself.

Beginning in the eighth week, some pups begin to bully others, while some become timid, shy and even terror-ridden. The issue of who is dominant and who is subordinate is settled by puppy fights, the competition for food and the best placement for the mother's body warmth. The largest male often becomes the dominant animal at the expense of the other dogs, who, in turn, work out their dominant or subordinate relationships with one another. These placements in the pack structure become permanent in the minds of the dogs. If the litter remains together for sixteen weeks or more, the order of dominance and subordination becomes absolute. An undersize puppy may be last in the pack structure and develop into an extremely timid or shy animal, which has negative consequences when he becomes an adult dog living as a pet.

Between eight and sixteen weeks, personality based on dominance and subordination takes shape. In a pack environment, the young dog takes his place in the social structure until circumstances dictate the necessity for change. When a human family takes a puppy into their home, this cycle is still ongoing, with the human environment substituting for the canine one. Ideally, a pet dog should take a subordinate position in relation to his "human pack." This can come about only if the dog is adaptive to humans and if the humans in the family take the leadership position, without becoming overbearing or bullying. In the beginning, all puppy behavior is based on instinct and the predilection toward pack structure. Learned behavior comes later.

If Your Dog Came from a Noncommercial Breeder

If your puppy was brought into the world and initially raised by a reputable, noncommercial breeder, the odds are favorable that he was born in excellent condition and given the best possible chance for good health and sound temperament. Experience tells us that this is not always the case, but that probability is on your side because many noncommercial breeders are experienced and knowledgeable. The breeder's goal is to produce the best possible purebred dogs that match as closely as possible the written Standard for their breed as set forth by the American Kennel Club (AKC) or the United Kennel Club (UKC). Their pups must be excellent examples of their breed in order to become good enough to compete in dog shows or to be incorporated into a planned breeding program. Only a few in each litter, if any, have the potential for competing in conformation dog shows where a winning dog eventually becomes a Champion of Record. Therefore, most puppies from reputable breeders are sold as companion animals and placed in good homes by their caring breeders, often because of only the slightest imperfection or departure from the written Standard. Noncommercial breeders are known to strive for perfection within their chosen breed, selecting good mating matches with an eye toward the quality of the resulting puppies. Most of these breeders are interested in developing a line of dogs that enhance the reputation of their kennel's name. They achieve this through experience, an understanding of genetics, selective breeding and socializing techniques used once the puppies are born. (To socialize a puppy is to develop his adaptability to humans and other dogs, thus making it friendly and trainable as a show dog or as a companion animal.) Not many kennels actually earn a profit from their efforts, because breeding and showing dogs is an expensive activity.

Perfection and winning is the goal -- not financial gain. Noncommercial and serious amateur (or hobby) breeders are the ideal source for the best possible purebred dog. This is essential if you are interested in show dogs, but also for making sure you get a beautiful, healthy representation of a breed that will live with you as a loving pet. Noncommercial breeders charge moderate to high prices for their puppies because of the high cost of maintaining a proper kennel. Producing high-quality purebred dogs costs a lot of money. Most noncommercial breeders enjoy what they do and are generally ethical and quite selective about who buys their puppies. When it comes to breeders who care deeply about their dogs, their puppies and their reputations, you will have to pass muster before they will sell you one. Such breeders must be convinced that you are capable and willing to provide a good home and all the necessities for raising a healthy, happy dog.

Finding a Reputable Noncommercial Breeder

You must do a certain amount of research in order to decide which breed is best for you. The next logical step is to s...

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